We really enjoyed our time in this ancient city. There was something for each of us. History, culture, eye candy for the architecturally interested, shopping, great food, good wine, and interesting Church Art.
The most unique piece of art framed was in the Franciscan Monastery. During the Bosnian War in the 1990s the Bosnian Forces shelled the Old Walled City (a war crime in my opinion) and lobbed a shell into the Monastery. Instead of filling the 5 inch hole in the wall they simply put a frame around it. Very clever and a poignant reminder that war has consequences beyond the fighting between soldiers. Innocents and treasures are put in harms way just as often and indiscriminately as the combatants themselves. In fact there is a Painting by Rubens next to the shell hole with a one inch by one inch tear it it. I assume this was caused by shrapnel from the shell’s impact.
Richard was talking with one of the locals and she told us about the horrors of the shelling. She said that the safest place to be when the Bosnian’s shelled the city was the city’s Aquarium. The Aquarium is located in the southeast corner (facing the sea) of the walled city and has walls that look to be five to eight feet thick. Also the rooms appear to once have held the gunpowder for the city’s defenses. When the shelling would begin all the children of the town would be hustled into the Aquarium to spend the night in safety. She said it became known as sleeping with the fishes. Richard asked her if she had ever seen the movie The Godfather – and explained the American meaning of the term “Sleeping with the Fishes”.
We all agree – Dubrovnik is the highlight of the trip so far. I’ve attached photos of a few of the landmark from ground level, examples of beautiful church art, samples of the incredible seafood and grilled meat cuisine, and photos of the group doing our best to live up to the title “Ugly American”.
And to think I came all the way to Croatia to have sex on one of their beaches – Bummer!
A couple of tips if you decide to visit Dubrovnik. First, stay within the walls of the old city. I promise you will get so much more out of the experience. Second, do not rent a car. Cars are not allowed in the Old City and there is no free parking anywhere close to the Old City. Either come in by plane, boat, bus, taxi or Ric Shaw and leave the hassle to others. Third, travel light – you will be either carrying or dragging your bags up and down lots of cobblestone lanes and stairs. Forth, get up early to walk the walls and alleys before the cruise ships and buses disgorge their thousands of drones and before the heat of the day builds. Finally, get out and walk the streets in the cool of the evening after the day trippers have all returned to their cruise ships and buses.
The evenings and early mornings in the walled city are the moments you will always remember. The empty streets and alleys, the white marble twinkling in the moon and lamp light, the soft music playing from unseen cafe bars, and long leisurely dinners with old friends or new. Those are the moments to take away from this magical place.
Next, on to side trips to Kotor and Mostar!
Love the reading tour and the pictures.