Traveling the Georgian/Russian Military Road to Kazbegi

Almost there! You can feel the positive energy of Tsminda Sameba Church as you near

For my first jaunt out of the Capital of Tbilisi I headed for the Northern Caucasus Mountains and the frontier town of Kazbegi.  Along the way I visited the historic and original capital of Georgia – Mtskheta, the Ananuri Fortress overlooking the Aragvi River Valley, the convergence of the Black and White Rivers, the ski resort of Gudauri, the high mountain pass of Jvari and the small village of Sno.

My first stop was to visit the beautiful 5th century Jvari Church.  This small but historic church sits atop a hill overlooking the city of Mtskheta.  The site is one of the holiest in all of Georgia.  It was on this site that King Mirian erected a wooden cross after his conversion to Christianity by St. Nino in the 4th century.  A century later Stepanoz I built this church over the cross.  Notice in the photo that the cross is in the center of the church.  I’m sure it is not the same one erected by King Mirian but this replacement was still placed in the center of the church.

After visiting Jvari Church we drove the winding 11 kilometer drive back down the hill and into Mtskheta.  Mtskheta was the original capital of Georgia and is still considered the spiritual capital of the country and holds near mystical status.  The major draw for me was to visit the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral.  The Cathedral and Monastery grounds are beautiful but the backstory is much more interesting.

It seems the king at the time before construction of the Cathedral was a man of somewhat loose morals and he promised to build a cathedral to buy off the church patriarch and god.  The first architect he hired failed to impress him so he fired him.  He then hired a young architect who drew up plans that the king thought regal enough for his tastes and set the young architect to work building his glorious cathedral.

In the meantime one of the noblemen of the kingdom decided to challenge the king and organized a rebellion.  The king promptly put down the rebellion and put many of the plotters to death but spared the chief plotter.  Instead he burnt out his eyes and let him continue to rule over his own fiefdom.  But to ensure the nobleman’s future loyalty he took his wife and young daughter as hostages.

It didn’t take long for the old reprobate king to get the hots for the young daughter so as kings do, he sent his wife to live with the nuns in a convent and prepared to put the moves on the young girl.  Thats when he discovered she was in love with his young architect and was promised to him.

The king was furious and started trashing everything about the Architect’s work.  He announced he was going to have the entire building razed and the architect put to death.  That is when the Church Patriarch stepped in and informed the king that though he may be paying for the cathedral all the decisions about the cathedral were between god and the patriarch and the king should just butt out.

The king backed down but demanded the architect loose a hand for the insult to the king and one hand was lopped off.  The architect got the last word though.  If you look closely at the exterior wall high up on the wall you will see a hand and forearm wielding a stone mason’s hammer.  A reminder that even before newspapers that buy ink by the barrel you didn’t screw with your stone mason that could create great art that would remind everyone of a king’s pettiness for a thousand years.

Another interesting legend is based upon the robe Jesus wore just before his execution.  The legend is that a Mtskheta Jewish Merchant was in Jerusalem at the time of the crucifixion and returned with the robe to Mtskheta.  He gave the robe to his sister who promptly died in the throws of religious passion.  The robe was buried with her and over time forgotten about.  The church was later built over her burial site and a number of miracles have been reported to have occurred because of the robe.

In addition to the cathedral we spent time wandering around thru the open air market stalls selling fresh fruit, spices, trinkets and strange local delicacies like churchxela (the Georgian answer to a western energy drink). and this strange paper thin dried fruit frisbee thing.

The churchxela is a mixture of grape juice/wine, flour, and hazel or walnuts.  The process requires the nuts to be connected via a string and needle.  The flour and grape juice/wine are mixed together to create a wet paste.  The paste is then applied liberally to the string of nuts and then placed in the sun to dry Once the concoction is dry it is ready to be sliced off and eaten to restore energy.  My guide claims it is better than Red Bull but who knows since I’ve never tried Red Bull.  I did try the churchxela but would not recommend it – taste disgusting I would rather be tired and listless than eat that crap.

The round frisbee looking snack is a dried fruit paste that is rolled out paper thin to about a plate size translucent crepe.  They make them out of various fruits including cherry, apricot, date, and peach.  They kinda taste like a kid’s fruit rollup without the sugar.

I did take this opportunity to buy my usual travel companion a Georgian hat.  Ryan  usually accompanies me on these adventures but school and a pretty girl have entered his life so I’m solo now.  But since we began our adventures together when he was only eight he has always collected hats from wherever we travel.  So far on this trip I have found him hats in three countries.

With Mtskheta in the rear view mirror it was on to the Fortress of Ananuri.  The 17th century Fortress contains two towers and two churches within it’s protective stone walls.  The fortress is perched on the highpoint above where the Ananuri River flows into the Zhinvali Reservoir.

The larger of the two churches is the Assumption Church with its beautiful stonework and Last Judgement fresco.  After leaving the fortress and driving further into the Caucasus my guide showed me an interesting anomaly.  The point at which the White and Black rivers converge (names sound much cooler in Georgian but I can’t begin to remember them).  Notice in the photo why the rivers are named the way they are.  You can clearly see the Black river and White river waters running side by side but not mixing – very weird and cool to see.

Another cool site on our way to the ski area were the redish brown travertine flows that have seeped to the surface of the mountain.  I guess this is the same basic stone that they are making high end counter tops with today but this stuff seems way to soft for any practical use.

After passing thru the Ski Resort (which I wouldn’t mind visiting during ski season) we finally reached Jvari Pass at 2400 meters. Once over the pass we made a short side trip to the Village of Sno where legend has it that when the 2nd great flood comes all who make it to sno will survive.  The village has two claims to fame a crumbling defensive tower house and the fact that Sno is the source for their version of Perrier.  Sno is the place where the most popular mineral water is bottled in Georgia.

And finally we reach our destination Kazbegi a small frontier town just mere kilometers from the Russian border crossing.  Though we have been heading for Kazbegi all day the prize is not in the town.  This is just where we transfer from a regular street car for a harrowing 30 minute 4 by 4 jeep ride clinging to the mountainside as we inched up a frikking goat trail to reach the incredible 14th century Tsminda Sameba Church.  The church sits majestically on a baron knoll at 2200 meters high with the incredibly beautiful Mount Kazbegi faithfully watching over the little church century after century.

Incredibly the huge stones for this church were brought up here one by one by oxen and the legs and sweat of 14th century true believers.  Monks have always lived at this church site and had to carry their food, water, and wood for fuel from down below.  Today they can heat their tiny cells with gas but it must have been brutally cold in past centuries.  I think you will agree the photos of this site are spectacular.  As wonderful as the photos turned out they are simply inadequate to portray the real beauty, majesty and spiritualness of this special place.

The worst part was leaving and knowing we faced the drive back down the goat trail of death.  I bet every tourist that visits this church becomes an instant christian and prays for a safe passage back down the mountain.  But I, like all other 90 minute christians, once back in Kazbegi headed straight for a cafe/bar for beer, cha cha and a dinner of tasty mince meat kebab.  After. two jumbo size local beers and the homemade moonshine they call cha cha I forgot all about the goat trail and the candle offering.

 

Displaying the churchxela that I made

Entrance to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Monastery Grounds

Cathedral from the Gate

Wooden Cross Replica of the Cross King MIrian placed on this spot in the 4th Century

Jvari Church

View of Mtskheta from Jvari Church

Jvari Church

5th Century Jvari Church

Cathedral Interior

Defensive Wall of the Church Compound

Cathedral and Monastery Grounds Defensive Wall

Cathedral from the Gate

Entrance to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Monastery Grounds

14rh Century Tsminda Sameba Church high above Kazbegi – a testament to mans faith in and devotion to their God

A view worth risking your neck for!

Monks have lived up here year round for over 6 centuries

View from Tsminda Sameba Church perch on top of the world

Church Grounds way above the town of Kazbegi

Every stone of this church was carried up the mountain by either oxen or men

The 14th Century Tsminda Sameba Church

Couple of these and a glass of cha cha and I forgot all about the Goat Trail From Hell

My damn glad to be alive dinner after traveling up and down the goat path from hell by 4 by 4.

Defensive Tower ruins in Sno given to a Knight for Service to the King

Near Jvari Pass

Traavertine FLow near Jvari Pass

The convergence of the Black and White Rivers. Pretty Cool how they don’t mix.

Approaching the Ananuri Fortress

The “Last Judgement” fresco from the Church of Assumption

View of the Reservoir from the Fortress

Church of Assumption – notice the Cross on each outside wall and the intricate stone work

Church of Assumption in the Ananuri Fortress

A cherry, apricot and peach dried fruit snack

Dried fruit snack – taste like a fruit roll up without the sugar

Applying the wine and flour paste to a string of hazelnuts to make churchxela – Georgia’s answer to Red Bull

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4 Responses to Traveling the Georgian/Russian Military Road to Kazbegi

  1. Mary Pennington says:

    You need your own travel show would watch it everyday what an awesome journey. And your blog is great by the way thanks Erin for getting him started. I don’t miss one blog I can’t wait to read them. Safe travels ahead.

  2. Jackie Barksdale says:

    The pictures look like you are on the top of the world. Thanks for the church history- very interesting. How were you able to march the goat trail without Erin, Sara and Ryan !

  3. Jeannette says:

    Very beautiful. Glad you made it down safe. Sounds like the people there are very nice.

  4. Maren says:

    Great site. Just had a quick read.

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